RIGHT ROUTE: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port &10140; Valcarlos: 11.5km
Ascent: 527m Descent: -337m
LEFT ROUTE: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port &10140; Orisson: 7.5km
Ascent: 663m Descent: -43m

Between here and Roncesvalles there are two routes. The (lower) RIGHT route goes through Valcarlos, and the (higher) LEFT route goes through Orisson. If you're walking outside the summer months it's important to ask in the Pilgrims Office about weather conditions. Both routes are difficult in snow or high winds and the LEFT route is OFFICIALLY CLOSED from the beginning of November until the end of March (ignoring this may lead to legal sanctions). Remember that in mountainous areas such as this, weather conditions can change very quickly.

Leaving Saint-Jean walk down rue de la Citadelle, under the arch of Porte d'Espagne and up rue d'Espagne, continuing straight under another arch and up a hill for about 100m until you reach a junction with a small sign on a lamppost indicating where the two routes divide.

RIGHT ROUTE VIA VALCARLOS *** TOTAL LENGTH 23.4km *** TOTAL ASCENT 1530m / DESCENT -758m

Turn right on to Chemin de Mayorga and continue straight until you come to the main road which you follow to the left. After 720m turn right on to a small road, clearly signposted Valcarlos / Luzaide and Roncevaux (French for Roncesvalles).

6.8km to the Spanish border, marked by a shopping centre and petrol station. Shops, cafés and restaurants. Walk towards the petrol station and continue straight.

1.2km to Arnéguy. The Camino crosses the river into France again and continues on a minor road through the village of Ondarrola, where it crosses the river again back into Spain then up a steep hill to Valcarlos.

Valcarlos &10140; Roncesvalles: 12.0km
Ascent: 998m Descent: -421m

Follow the main road for 2.4km until the Camino veers left on to a minor road and passes through the village of Gañecoleta before rejoining the main road after 1.7km. It then follows the main road for another 2.3km before veering left on to a lane. From there it's 4.1km of wooded, mountainous terrain to the top at Ibañeta (apart from one place where the Camino briefly meets the road again). Off-road parts of this route may be difficult in snow, in which case it's advisable to stick to the road. From the peak it's 1.4km down to Roncesvalles.

At the summit of the Puerto de Ibañeta, beside a small modern chapel, is a monument to Roland (Roldán in Spanish) and the Battle of Roncesvalles. Although the current chapel is very recent, there has been a chapel here since the middle ages. When there was fog or snow the chapel bell was rung to guide pilgrims who had gotten lost.

LEFT ROUTE VIA ORISSON *** TOTAL LENGTH 24.3km *** TOTAL ASCENT 1465m / DESCENT -694m

This route is sometimes known as le Port de Cize or the Route Napoléon. It follows the route of the Via Traiana, a Roman road linking Bordeaux and Astorga. In the early days of the Camino Francés this was the most popular route. Its popularity declined during the late middle-ages.

2.4km to Honto / Hontto

Ferme Ithurburia, to the left of the Camino. Evening meal. Breakfast. Laundry facilities. Singles/doubles from 70€. Tel 05 59 37 11 17

Orisson &10140; Borda: 0.6km
Ascent: 58m Descent: -17m

Borda &10140; Roncesvalles: 16.1km
Ascent: 722m Descent: -634m

3.8km after Orisson at a place called Pic d'Hostatéguy you'll pass the statue of La Vierge du Chemin with (weather permitting) panoramic views of the western Pyrenees. From there it's another 8.9km to the highest point at altitude 1427m, after which it's another 4.2km down to Roncesvalles.

Welcome to Spain and Navarra!

There are two options when descending into Roncesvalles, the most popular route to the left is quite a steep descent through the forest, while the route to the right is slightly longer, descending more gently along an unpaved road via the church at Puerto de Ibañeta.

LEFT AND RIGHT ROUTE REJOIN IN RONCESVALLES

Roncesvalles &10140; Burguete: 2.8km
Ascent: 4m Descent: -53m

Burguete &10140; Espinal: 3.4km
Ascent: 54m Descent: -73m

The Camino takes an abrupt right turn at the red Santander sign.

Espinal &10140; Zubiri: 15.0km
Ascent: 314m Descent: -655m

5.2km to Viskarret, new café Bar Dena Ona before the village and the traditional Bar Juan on main square with its amazing tortillas. Small Covirán supermarket on your left at the end of the village.

1.9km to Linzoain, after that it's 7.8km to Zubiri with a steep descent into the valley of the river Arre.

The Camino continues straight along the riverbank and doesn't go through Zubiri which is on the other side of the bridge.

Zubiri &10140; Larrasoaña: 5.3km
Ascent: 117m Descent: -153m

The Camino bypasses Larrasoaña. If you want to visit the village turn right to cross the bridge.

Larrasoaña &10140; Zuriain: 3.7km
Ascent: 92m Descent: -115m

Zuriain &10140; Zabaldika: 3.1km
Ascent: 51m Descent: -58m

Zabaldika &10140; Villava: 3.7km
Ascent: 95m Descent: -135m

Villava &10140; Pamplona: 4.5km
Ascent: 53m Descent: -32m

It's suburban streets from here to Pamplona. The Camino turns right shortly before a roundabout with a fountain in the middle and crosses a main road and turns right again. The 'zig-zag' footbridge over the river is the quickest way to Casa Paderborn, otherwise continue straight along the riverbank to Puente de la Magdalena.

Pamplona &10140; Cizur Menor: 4.9km
Ascent: 76m Descent: -73m

If you get lost leaving Pamplona head for the Ciudadela fortress at the corner of Avenida del Ejército and Avenida del Pio XII. The path beside the park, with the fortress to your left, is the Camino. It's clearly marked. Several cafés around here are open early.

Cizur Menor &10140; Zariquiegui: 5.9km
Ascent: 197m Descent: -32m

5.9km to Zariquiegui / Zarikiegi. Shop. Café San Andrés opens early.

From Cizur Menor it's a 300m climb to the peak of the Alto del Perdón, after which there is a steep descent on loose gravel which must be tackled with care.

Zariquiegui &10140; Uterga: 5.8km
Ascent: 144m Descent: -273m

Shortly before you reach the peak of the Alto del Perdón, where the windmills tower above you like something from a modern-day Don Quijote, you'll pass a drinking fountain. This is where, according to legend, the devil appeared to a parched pilgrim and offered to buy his soul for a drink of water. The pilgrim, no doubt having weighed up his options, decided in view of the unspeakable (and eternal) horrors that awaited him in hell that he could probably manage another while without a drink and politely declined. Whereupon, in a blinding flash of light, St James himself appeared and striking the ground with his staff brought forth a raging torrent of fresh water. Thus saving the pilgrim from a thirsty walk to the next village.

Today, unfortunately, of that raging torrent only a trickle remains.

The peak of Alto del Perdón has fantastic views of the route already travelled and the adventures yet to come. At the top is a flat, cut-out sculpture of medieval pilgrims on their way to Santiago. The inscription reads:

Donde se cruza el camino del viento con el de las estrellas

Where the way of the wind meets the way of the stars

Observe how the fauna has begun to change from northern European to Mediterranean. Before long you'll begin to see grapevines growing beside the Camino.

Uterga &10140; Puente la Reina: 7.0km
Ascent: 43m Descent: -181m

2.7km to Muruzábal, café.

From Muruzábal you can make a short detour to visit the historic church in Eunate, it's signposted from the Camino. From Eunate you can rejoin the Camino in Obanos, adding approximately 3km to your Camino.

The pilgrim albergue in Eunate is closed. The church has variable opening times depending on the month. Entrance is 1.50€ for pilgrims. See santamariadeeunate.es/horarios-de-apertura

The church of La Ermita Santa Maria de Eunate, to give it its proper name (ermita is Spanish for hermitage), was built in the 12th century. Its location in open country and close to the meeting of two Caminos suggests it was intended primarily as a pilgrim church, however little is known for certain about its history. It is octagonal in shape and surrounded by an external gallery of 33 arches. Its shape, similar to the church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, has provoked speculations about a connection with the Knights Templar. The presence of stairs giving access to the roof suggests it may have been a funeral chapel because of the tradition of placing a lantern there during the funeral. However, many features of the architecture and décor of this church, such as its shape, the external arches, some of the carvings, etc., continue to bemuse historians. The stonemasons who worked on the church left carved symbols to identify their handiwork. See if you can spot them.

Eunate is the point where the Camino Aragonés, an extension of the Chemin d'Arles which enters Spain over the Col de Somport, joins the Camino Francés.

1.5km to Obanos, cafés, shops, pharmacy, all near the Camino.

The handsome neo-Gothic church which overlooks the village square was completed in 1912. The Mystery of Obanos (see below) is re-enacted by local people in full costume in July of even years (ie. 2022, 2024, etc.) for eight days from the Saturday before St James' Day (25 July).

Obanos is the setting of a Camino legend dating from the 14th century. At that time the daughter of the king and queen of Aquitaine, Felica, decided to follow the family tradition of going on pilgrimage to Santiago. She returned from her journey so filled with piousness and religious fervour that she was unable to settle back into the life of idleness and privilege that befitted one of her station and instead, leaving it all behind, set off to live an anonymous life of service to others.

Needless to say her family were outraged and sent her brother Guillén to track her down. He found her after much searching in Obanos and when his efforts to persuade her to return to their family home proved to be for nought he flew into a rage and killed her with his dagger.

Having killed his sister Guillén was racked with guilt and as penance decided to follow in her footsteps to Santiago. While there he in his turn saw the light and decided to dedicate the remainder of his life to poverty and charity. On his return to Obanos he built a hermitage on a nearby peak called Arnotegui, where he lived out his days as a hermit dedicated to prayer and helping passing pilgrims. The hermitage at Arnotegui is still there on a hilltop about 3km south-west of the village, the road up is signposted from the main road.

There are two routes to get to Puente la Reina. Leaving Obanos you'll come to steps going down left which lead to a slightly meandering (and slightly longer) path to Puente. Alternatively, if you choose to continue straight ahead you can follow a path parallel to the road passing Albergue Jakue.

Puente la Reina &10140; Mañeru: 4.9km
Ascent: 166m Descent: -63m

There is a surprisingly steep 100m climb before arriving in...

Mañeru &10140; Cirauqui: 2.7km
Ascent: 66m Descent: -27m

Cirauqui &10140; Lorca: 5.6km
Ascent: 147m Descent: -173m

Lorca &10140; Villatuerta: 4.5km
Ascent: 41m Descent: -82m

Villatuerta &10140; Estella: 4.1km
Ascent: 74m Descent: -73m

Estella &10140; Ayegui: 1.5km
Ascent: 65m Descent: -2m

To leave Estella continue past the Municipal Albergue on Calle la Rua, then straight until you come to a roundabout where you continue straight towards another roundabout where there is an Avia petrol station. After this the Camino continues uphill on a footpath. You can also continue walking along the road, Calle de Carlos VII, which rejoins the Camino after 500m, on this road is a small Decathlon (outdoor shop) and several large supermarkets.

RIGHT ROUTE: Ayegui &10140; Villamayor de Monjardín: 7.4km
Ascent: 286m Descent: -115m
LEFT ROUTE: Ayegui &10140; Luquín: 8.1km
Ascent: 313m Descent: -215m

The Camino splits shortly after Bodegas Irache. Distances for left and right routes are Ayegui to Los Arcos.

RIGHT ROUTE 19.4km

5.7 km to Azqueta. Nice café, open from 07:00. Vending machines.

Friendly guest house La Perla Negra, on the Camino on the left, 45€ person, evening meal and breakfast included. Tel 627 114 797

Villamayor de Monjardín &10140; Los Arcos: 12.0km
Ascent: 86m Descent: -306m

12km through open country with very little shade to Los Arcos.

LEFT ROUTE 18.8km

The left route passes through beautiful forested countryside and the village of Luquín.

Luquín &10140; Los Arcos: 10.8km
Ascent: 97m Descent: -243m

10.8km to Los Arcos, very little shade.

RIGHT AND LEFT ROUTES REJOIN BEFORE LOS ARCOS

You will pass the site of the Hospital de Cugullo of which today not much remains. It was founded in 1099 by the Order of St John of Jerusalem.

Los Arcos &10140; Sansol: 7.0km
Ascent: 92m Descent: -53m

Sansol &10140; Torres del Río: 0.7km
Ascent: 19m Descent: -42m

Torres del Río &10140; Viana: 10.5km
Ascent: 284m Descent: -278m

Viana &10140; Logroño: 9.2km
Ascent: 101m Descent: -196m

Entering La Rioja (although if you stray a little to your right you can pass through a tiny corner of the Basque Country)

Logroño &10140; Navarrete: 12.7km
Ascent: 227m Descent: -96m

Supermarkets and fruit and veg market on the Camino on the way out of town (not open at the crack of dawn). Mostly concrete walking surfaces to Navarrete!

6.3km café La Parada del Peregrino. Watch out for squirrels begging for (and possibly stealing) food, and rabbits.

Navarrete &10140; Ventosa: 6.9km
Ascent: 159m Descent: -38m

The Camino follows the road for a while before swinging away to the left shortly after the Ermita de Santa María de Jesús.

A sign-posted alternative route allows you to bypass Ventosa and shorten the way by 500m.

Ventosa &10140; Nájera: 9.0km
Ascent: 69m Descent: -198m

After passing under a main road don't miss the left turn towards Nájera (unless you actually want to visit Huércanos - not recommended).

Nájera &10140; Azofra: 6.6km
Ascent: 129m Descent: -74m

Azofra &10140; Cirueña: 9.3km
Ascent: 231m Descent: -37m

Cirueña &10140; Santo Domingo de la Calzada: 5.5km
Ascent: 39m Descent: -135m

Extreme care is necessary when crossing the main roads in Santo Domingo!

Santo Domingo de la Calzada &10140; Grañón: 6.8km
Ascent: 109m Descent: -23m

Grañón &10140; Redecilla del Camino: 3.9km
Ascent: 74m Descent: -64m

Entering Castilla y León. The border is marked by a 'megalith' which is rumoured to have appeared in the dead of night during a violent thunder storm. Local Albergue owners are rumoured to offer it a blood sacrifice every new year's day in the hope of plentiful big spending pilgrims and possibly a sequel to The Way.

The main road here can be busy with fast traffic. Construction is underway on the new motorway and is likely to lead to some detours in the coming years.

Redecilla del Camino &10140; Castildelgado: 1.6km
Ascent: 28m Descent: 0m

Castildelgado &10140; Viloria de la Rioja: 2.1km
Ascent: 46m Descent: -17m

It is not advisable to walk along the side of the very busy main road.

Viloria de la Rioja &10140; Villamayor del Río: 3.3km
Ascent: 47m Descent: -61m

Villamayor del Río &10140; Belorado: 5.0km
Ascent: 36m Descent: -57m

Belorado &10140; Tosantos: 4.6km
Ascent: 66m Descent: -12m

Tosantos &10140; Villambistia: 2.0km
Ascent: 45m Descent: -6m

Villambistia &10140; Espinosa del Camino: 1.6km
Ascent: 44m Descent: -6m

Espinosa del Camino &10140; Villafranca Montes de Oca: 3.5km
Ascent: 72m Descent: -25m

Villafranca Montes de Oca &10140; San Juan de Ortega: 12.0km
Ascent: 251m Descent: -195m

Ascent 214m over 3.1km

At the summit of Montes de Oca (3.6km) is a monument dedicated to the victims of a massacre during the civil war, the inscription reads:

No fue inútil su muerte, fue inútil su fusilamiento / Their death wasn't in vain, their execution was

In 2011 a mass grave was uncovered here containing the bodies of 60 people.

These hills (mountains is hardly the word) have the reputation in Camino lore for being a den of thieves, conmen and other assorted low-life who, taking advantage of the thick undergrowth, would lie in wait for unsuspecting pilgrims and relieve them of their valuables.

Nowadays, the most dangerous thing in this area is the traffic in Villafranca.

The Montes de Oca are at the extreme north-western end of the Sistema Ibérico mountain range which extends from here south-east through southern Rioja and on into eastern Castile. This mountain range is part of the watershed between the Atlantic and Mediterranean. Heavily wooded with native oak, the Montes de Oca are a paradise for wildlife, with deer and wild boar living here in abundance. You may also see otters, wildcats, foxes, badgers and wolves. Besides oak, juniper and ash are also common.

San Juan de Ortega &10140; Agés: 3.7km
Ascent: 22m Descent: -58m

There are two routes from here to Burgos. The alternative one is waymarked but little-used and devoid of pilgrim accommodation. It passes through the following villages: Santovenia de Oca, Zalduendo, Ibeas de Juarros, Castrillo del Val, San Medel, Castañares and then to Burgos. Parts of it are along the side of a main road.

Agés &10140; Atapuerca: 2.4km
Ascent: 6m Descent: -19m

Atapuerca &10140; Cardeñuela Ríopico: 6.1km
Ascent: 125m Descent: -154m

Cardeñuela Ríopico &10140; : 2.0km
Ascent: 3m Descent: -16m

2km to Orbaneja Ríopico, café.

There are two routes when entering Burgos. They divide after Orbaneja, after crossing over a motorway where you'll see houses and recycling containers on the left. The right route (10.9km from where they divide) has little shade and passes through Villafría (cafés) and a seemingly endless industrial zone. The left route (11.1km from where they divide) follows the perimeter fence of the airport to a village called Castañares (cafés) and a major road which you can cross at the pedestrian crossing to your left. Continue straight through a small park with a children's playground to your left and a basketball court to your right, straight along a small road which crosses a stream and swings right at the entrance to a factory. Continue until you cross a footbridge over a river. Now turn right and follow the path between the river and the road, turning left to pass under the road. Now you can follow the river for a pleasant, shady walk all the way to the city. There's a beach where you can swim (although the water is freezing). This route passes through a little-frequented nature reserve and some people may feel uncomfortable on their own.

Burgos &10140; Tardajos: 10.9km
Ascent: 35m Descent: -77m

Finding your way out of Burgos can be a bit complicated. Exiting the municipal albergue turn right and follow the Camino past the cathedral along Calle Fernán de González for 550m until you come to the city wall. Pass through the arch and turn left down the steps and straight on to Calle Emperador as far as Calle Villalon, where you turn left. This will bring you to the river which you cross on a footbridge (Puente Malotos) straight in front of you. After the footbridge you'll see a statue of Santo Domingo and the entrance to a park at the corner of Paseo de los Comendadores. You can either walk through the park or veer right on to Avenida de José Maria Vilacián Rebollo and then straight on to Calle de Villadiego, then veer right on to Calle de Benito Pérez Galdós (sign pointing to Los Guindales). From there follow the yellow arrows.

Tardajos &10140; Rabé de las Calzadas: 1.8km
Ascent: 16m Descent: -12m

Rabé de las Calzadas &10140; Hornillos del Camino: 7.7km
Ascent: 104m Descent: -112m

Hornillos del Camino &10140; San Bol: 5.7km
Ascent: 127m Descent: -51m

San Bol &10140; Hontanas: 4.8km
Ascent: 38m Descent: -66m

Hontanas &10140; San Antón: 5.6km
Ascent: 27m Descent: -89m

For several kilometres after Hontanas the Camino runs parallel to a quite country road. In bad weather walking the road is an easier option.

San Antón &10140; Castrojeriz: 3.7km
Ascent: 40m Descent: -33m