RIGHT ROUTE: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Valcarlos: 11.5km
Ascent: 527m Descent: -337m
LEFT ROUTE: Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port to Orisson: 7.5km
Ascent: 663m Descent: -43m

Between here and Roncesvalles there are two routes. The (lower) RIGHT route goes through Valcarlos, and the (higher) LEFT route goes through Orisson. If you're walking outside the summer months it's important to ask in the Pilgrims Office about weather conditions. Both routes are difficult in snow or high winds and the LEFT route is OFFICIALLY CLOSED from the beginning of November until the end of March (ignoring this may lead to legal sanctions). Remember that in mountainous areas such as this, weather conditions can change very quickly.

Leaving Saint-Jean walk down rue de la Citadelle, under the arch of Porte d'Espagne and up rue d'Espagne, continuing straight under another arch and up a hill for about 100m until you reach a junction with a small sign on a lamppost indicating where the two routes divide.

RIGHT ROUTE VIA VALCARLOS *** TOTAL LENGTH 23.4km *** TOTAL ASCENT 1530m / DESCENT -758m

Turn right on to Chemin de Mayorga and continue straight until you come to the main road which you follow to the left. After 720m turn right on to a small road, clearly signposted Valcarlos / Luzaide and Roncevaux (French for Roncesvalles).

6.8km to the Spanish border, marked by a shopping centre and petrol station. Shops, cafés and restaurants. Walk towards the petrol station and continue straight.

1.2km to Arnéguy. The Camino crosses the river into France again and continues on a minor road through the village of Ondarrola, where it crosses the river again back into Spain then up a steep hill to Valcarlos.

Valcarlos to Roncesvalles: 12.0km
Ascent: 998m Descent: -421m

Follow the main road for 2.4km until the Camino veers left on to a minor road and passes through the village of Gañecoleta before rejoining the main road after 1.7km. It then follows the main road for another 2.3km before veering left on to a lane. From there it's 4.1km of wooded, mountainous terrain to the top at Ibañeta (apart from one place where the Camino briefly meets the road again). Off-road parts of this route may be difficult in snow, in which case it's advisable to stick to the road. From the peak it's 1.4km down to Roncesvalles.

At the summit of the Puerto de Ibañeta, beside a small modern chapel, is a monument to Roland (Roldán in Spanish) and the Battle of Roncesvalles. Although the current chapel is very recent, there has been a chapel here since the middle ages. When there was fog or snow the chapel bell was rung to guide pilgrims who had gotten lost.

LEFT ROUTE VIA ORISSON *** TOTAL LENGTH 24.3km *** TOTAL ASCENT 1465m / DESCENT -694m

This route is sometimes known as le Port de Cize or the Route Napoléon. It follows the route of the Via Traiana, a Roman road linking Bordeaux and Astorga. In the early days of the Camino Francés this was the most popular route. Its popularity declined during the late middle-ages.

2.4km to Honto / Hontto

Ferme Ithurburia, to the left of the Camino. Evening meal. Breakfast. Laundry facilities. Singles/doubles from 70€. Tel 05 59 37 11 17

Orisson to Borda: 0.6km
Ascent: 58m Descent: -17m

Borda to Roncesvalles: 16.1km
Ascent: 722m Descent: -634m

3.8km after Orisson at a place called Pic d'Hostatéguy you'll pass the statue of La Vierge du Chemin with (weather permitting) panoramic views of the western Pyrenees. From there it's another 8.9km to the highest point at altitude 1427m, after which it's another 4.2km down to Roncesvalles.

Welcome to Spain and Navarra!

There are two options when descending into Roncesvalles, the most popular route to the left is quite a steep descent through the forest, while the route to the right is slightly longer, descending more gently along an unpaved road via the church at Puerto de Ibañeta.

LEFT AND RIGHT ROUTE REJOIN IN RONCESVALLES

Roncesvalles to Burguete: 2.8km
Ascent: 4m Descent: -53m

Burguete to Espinal: 3.4km
Ascent: 54m Descent: -73m

The Camino takes an abrupt right turn at the red Santander sign.

Espinal to Zubiri: 15.0km
Ascent: 314m Descent: -655m

5.2km to Viskarret, new café Bar Dena Ona before the village and the traditional Bar Juan on main square with its amazing tortillas. Small Covirán supermarket on your left at the end of the village.

1.9km to Linzoain, after that it's 7.8km to Zubiri with a steep descent into the valley of the river Arre.

The Camino continues straight along the riverbank and doesn't go through Zubiri which is on the other side of the bridge.

Zubiri to Larrasoaña: 5.3km
Ascent: 117m Descent: -153m

The Camino bypasses Larrasoaña. If you want to visit the village turn right to cross the bridge.

Larrasoaña to Zuriain: 3.7km
Ascent: 92m Descent: -115m

Zuriain to Zabaldika: 3.1km
Ascent: 51m Descent: -58m

Zabaldika to Villava: 3.7km
Ascent: 95m Descent: -135m

Villava to Pamplona: 4.5km
Ascent: 53m Descent: -32m

It's suburban streets from here to Pamplona. The Camino turns right shortly before a roundabout with a fountain in the middle and crosses a main road and turns right again. The 'zig-zag' footbridge over the river is the quickest way to Casa Paderborn, otherwise continue straight along the riverbank to Puente de la Magdalena.

Pamplona to Cizur Menor: 4.9km
Ascent: 76m Descent: -73m

If you get lost leaving Pamplona head for the Ciudadela fortress at the corner of Avenida del Ejército and Avenida del Pio XII. The path beside the park, with the fortress to your left, is the Camino. It's clearly marked. Several cafés around here are open early.

The land between Pamplona and Cizur Menor is the site of the mythical battle between Charlemagne and the giant Muslim leader Aigolando said to have raged for days. It ended in victory for Charlemagne.

Cizur Menor to Zariquiegui: 5.9km
Ascent: 197m Descent: -32m

From Cizur Menor it's a 300m climb to the peak of the Alto del Perdón.

Zariquiegui to Uterga: 5.8km
Ascent: 144m Descent: -273m

Shortly before you reach the peak of the Alto del Perdón, where the windmills tower above you like something from a modern-day Don Quijote, you'll pass a drinking fountain. This is where, according to legend, the devil appeared to a parched pilgrim and offered to buy his soul for a drink of water. The pilgrim, no doubt having weighed up his options, decided in view of the unspeakable (and eternal) horrors that awaited him in hell that he could probably manage another while without a drink and politely declined. Whereupon, in a blinding flash of light, St James himself appeared and striking the ground with his staff brought forth a raging torrent of fresh water. Thus saving the pilgrim from a thirsty walk to the next village.

Today, unfortunately, of that raging torrent only a trickle remains.

The peak of Alto del Perdón has fantastic views of the route already travelled and the adventures yet to come. At the top is a flat, cut-out sculpture of medieval pilgrims on their way to Santiago. The inscription reads:

Donde se cruza el camino del viento con el de las estrellas

Where the way of the wind meets the way of the stars

Observe how the fauna has begun to change from northern European to Mediterranean. Before long you'll begin to see grapevines growing beside the Camino.

There is a steep descent on loose gravel from Alto del Perdón. It must be tackled with care.

Uterga to Puente la Reina: 7.0km
Ascent: 43m Descent: -181m

2.7km to Muruzábal, café.

From Muruzábal you can make a short detour to visit the historic church in Eunate, it's signposted from the Camino. From Eunate you can rejoin the Camino in Obanos, adding approximately 3km to your Camino.

The pilgrim albergue in Eunate is closed. The church has variable opening times depending on the month. Entrance is 1.50€ for pilgrims. See santamariadeeunate.es/horarios-de-apertura

The church of La Ermita Santa Maria de Eunate, to give it its proper name (ermita is Spanish for hermitage), was built in the 12th century. Its location in open country and close to the meeting of two Caminos suggests it was intended primarily as a pilgrim church, however little is known for certain about its history. It is octagonal in shape and surrounded by an external gallery of 33 arches. Its shape, similar to the church of the Holy Sepulchre in Jerusalem, has provoked speculations about a connection with the Knights Templar. The presence of stairs giving access to the roof suggests it may have been a funeral chapel because of the tradition of placing a lantern there during the funeral. However, many features of the architecture and décor of this church, such as its shape, the external arches, some of the carvings, etc., continue to bemuse historians. The stonemasons who worked on the church left carved symbols to identify their handiwork. See if you can spot them.

Eunate is the point where the Camino Aragonés, an extension of the Chemin d'Arles which enters Spain over the Col de Somport, joins the Camino Francés.

1.5km to Obanos, cafés, shops, pharmacy, all near the Camino.

The handsome neo-Gothic church which overlooks the village square was completed in 1912. The Mystery of Obanos (see below) is re-enacted by local people in full costume in July of even years (ie. 2022, 2024, etc.) for eight days from the Saturday before St James' Day (25 July).

Obanos is the setting of a Camino legend dating from the 14th century. At that time the daughter of the king and queen of Aquitaine, Felica, decided to follow the family tradition of going on pilgrimage to Santiago. She returned from her journey so filled with piousness and religious fervour that she was unable to settle back into the life of idleness and privilege that befitted one of her station and instead, leaving it all behind, set off to live an anonymous life of service to others.

Needless to say her family were outraged and sent her brother Guillén to track her down. He found her after much searching in Obanos and when his efforts to persuade her to return to their family home proved to be for nought he flew into a rage and killed her with his dagger.

Having killed his sister Guillén was racked with guilt and as penance decided to follow in her footsteps to Santiago. While there he in his turn saw the light and decided to dedicate the remainder of his life to poverty and charity. On his return to Obanos he built a hermitage on a nearby peak called Arnotegui, where he lived out his days as a hermit dedicated to prayer and helping passing pilgrims. The hermitage at Arnotegui is still there on a hilltop about 3km south-west of the village, the road up is signposted from the main road.

There are two routes to get to Puente la Reina. Leaving Obanos you'll come to steps going down left which lead to a slightly meandering (and slightly longer) path to Puente. Alternatively, if you choose to continue straight ahead you can follow a path parallel to the road passing Albergue Jakue.

Puente la Reina to Mañeru: 4.9km
Ascent: 166m Descent: -63m

There is a surprisingly steep 100m climb before arriving in...

Mañeru to Cirauqui: 2.7km
Ascent: 66m Descent: -27m

Cirauqui to Lorca: 5.6km
Ascent: 147m Descent: -173m

Leaving Cirauqui, the Camino passes over a bridge dating from the Roman era. This part of the Camino mostly follows a Roman road, the remains of which are at times visible. This was a secondary Roman road, the main Bordeaux to Astorga road ran to the north of here.

This region has several despoblados or abandoned villages. Between Cirauqui and Lorca you will pass through one which once covered 20km² on both sides of the Roman road. Today only the ruins of the church remain.

It's around here that vines and olive trees begin to appear, marking the transition from the more humid and cold northern climate to the warmer and dryer Mediterranean.

Lorca to Villatuerta: 4.5km
Ascent: 41m Descent: -82m

Villatuerta to Estella: 4.1km
Ascent: 74m Descent: -73m

Estella to Ayegui: 1.5km
Ascent: 65m Descent: -2m

To leave Estella continue past the Municipal Albergue on Calle la Rua, then straight until you come to a roundabout where you continue straight towards another roundabout where there is an Avia petrol station. After this the Camino continues uphill on a footpath. You can also continue walking along the road, Calle de Carlos VII, which rejoins the Camino after 500m, on this road is a small Decathlon (outdoor shop) and several large supermarkets.

RIGHT ROUTE: Ayegui to Villamayor de Monjardín: 7.4km
Ascent: 286m Descent: -115m
LEFT ROUTE: Ayegui to Luquín: 8.1km
Ascent: 313m Descent: -215m

The Camino splits shortly after Bodegas Irache. Distances for left and right routes are Ayegui to Los Arcos.

RIGHT ROUTE 19.4km

5.7 km to Azqueta. Nice café, open from 07:00. Vending machines.

Friendly guest house La Perla Negra, on the Camino on the left, 45€ person, evening meal and breakfast included. Tel 627 114 797

Villamayor de Monjardín to Los Arcos: 12.0km
Ascent: 86m Descent: -306m

12km through open country with very little shade to Los Arcos.

LEFT ROUTE 18.8km

The left route passes through beautiful forested countryside and the village of Luquín.

Luquín to Los Arcos: 10.8km
Ascent: 97m Descent: -243m

10.8km to Los Arcos, very little shade.

RIGHT AND LEFT ROUTES REJOIN BEFORE LOS ARCOS

You will pass the site of the Hospital de Cugullo of which today not much remains. It was founded in 1099 by the Order of St John of Jerusalem.

Los Arcos to Sansol: 7.0km
Ascent: 92m Descent: -53m

Sansol to Torres del Río: 0.7km
Ascent: 19m Descent: -42m

Torres del Río to Viana: 10.5km
Ascent: 284m Descent: -278m

Viana to Logroño: 9.2km
Ascent: 101m Descent: -196m

Entering La Rioja (although if you stray a little to your right you can pass through a tiny corner of the Basque Country)

Logroño to Navarrete: 12.7km
Ascent: 227m Descent: -96m

Supermarkets and fruit and veg market on the Camino on the way out of town (not open at the crack of dawn). Mostly concrete walking surfaces to Navarrete!

6.3km café La Parada del Peregrino (closed in August 2024). Public toilets. Watch out for squirrels begging for (and possibly stealing) food, and rabbits.

Navarrete to Ventosa: 6.9km
Ascent: 159m Descent: -38m

The Camino follows the road for a while before swinging away to the left shortly after the Ermita de Santa María de Jesús.

A sign-posted alternative route allows you to bypass Ventosa and shorten the way by 500m.

Ventosa to Nájera: 9.0km
Ascent: 69m Descent: -198m

After passing under a main road don't miss the left turn towards Nájera (unless you actually want to visit Huércanos - not recommended).

Nájera to Azofra: 6.6km
Ascent: 129m Descent: -74m

Azofra to Cirueña: 9.3km
Ascent: 231m Descent: -37m

Cirueña to Santo Domingo de la Calzada: 5.5km
Ascent: 39m Descent: -135m

Extreme care is necessary when crossing the main roads in Santo Domingo!

Santo Domingo de la Calzada to Grañón: 6.8km
Ascent: 109m Descent: -23m

Grañón to Redecilla del Camino: 3.9km
Ascent: 74m Descent: -64m

Entering Castilla y León. The border is marked by a 'megalith' which is rumoured to have appeared in the dead of night during a violent thunder storm. Local Albergue owners are rumoured to offer it a blood sacrifice every new year's day in the hope of plentiful big spending pilgrims and possibly a sequel to The Way.

The main road here can be busy with fast traffic. Construction is underway on the new motorway and is likely to lead to some detours in the coming years.

Redecilla del Camino to Castildelgado: 1.6km
Ascent: 28m Descent: 0m

Castildelgado to Viloria de la Rioja: 2.1km
Ascent: 46m Descent: -17m

It is not advisable to walk along the side of the very busy main road.

Viloria de la Rioja to Villamayor del Río: 3.3km
Ascent: 47m Descent: -61m

Villamayor del Río to Belorado: 5.0km
Ascent: 36m Descent: -57m

Belorado to Tosantos: 4.6km
Ascent: 66m Descent: -12m

Tosantos to Villambistia: 2.0km
Ascent: 45m Descent: -6m

Villambistia to Espinosa del Camino: 1.6km
Ascent: 44m Descent: -6m

Espinosa del Camino to Villafranca Montes de Oca: 3.5km
Ascent: 72m Descent: -25m

Villafranca Montes de Oca to San Juan de Ortega: 12.0km
Ascent: 251m Descent: -195m

Ascent 214m over 3.1km

At the summit of Montes de Oca (3.6km) is a monument dedicated to the victims of a massacre during the civil war, the inscription reads:

No fue inútil su muerte, fue inútil su fusilamiento / Their death wasn't in vain, their execution was

In 2011 a mass grave was uncovered here containing the bodies of 60 people.

These hills (mountains is hardly the word) have the reputation in Camino lore for being a den of thieves, conmen and other assorted low-life who, taking advantage of the thick undergrowth, would lie in wait for unsuspecting pilgrims and relieve them of their valuables.

Nowadays, the most dangerous thing in this area is the traffic in Villafranca.

The Montes de Oca are at the extreme north-western end of the Sistema Ibérico mountain range which extends from here south-east through southern Rioja and on into eastern Castile. This mountain range is part of the watershed between the Atlantic and Mediterranean. Heavily wooded with native oak, the Montes de Oca are a paradise for wildlife, with deer and wild boar living here in abundance. You may also see otters, wildcats, foxes, badgers and wolves. Besides oak, juniper and ash are also common.

San Juan de Ortega to Agés: 3.7km
Ascent: 22m Descent: -58m

There are two routes from here to Burgos. The alternative one is waymarked but little-used and devoid of pilgrim accommodation. It passes through the following villages: Santovenia de Oca, Zalduendo, Ibeas de Juarros, Castrillo del Val, San Medel, Castañares and then to Burgos. Parts of it are along the side of a main road.

Agés to Atapuerca: 2.4km
Ascent: 6m Descent: -19m

Atapuerca to Cardeñuela Ríopico: 6.1km
Ascent: 125m Descent: -154m

Cardeñuela Ríopico to : 2.0km
Ascent: 3m Descent: -16m

2km to Orbaneja Ríopico, café.

There are two routes when entering Burgos. They divide after Orbaneja, after crossing over a motorway where you'll see houses and recycling containers on the left. The right route (10.9km from where they divide) has little shade and passes through Villafría (cafés) and a seemingly endless industrial zone. The left route (11.1km from where they divide) follows the perimeter fence of the airport to a village called Castañares (cafés) and a major road which you can cross at the pedestrian crossing to your left. Continue straight through a small park with a children's playground to your left and a basketball court to your right, straight along a small road which crosses a stream and swings right at the entrance to a factory. Continue until you cross a footbridge over a river. Now turn right and follow the path between the river and the road, turning left to pass under the road. Now you can follow the river for a pleasant, shady walk all the way to the city. There's a beach where you can swim (although the water is freezing). This route passes through a little-frequented nature reserve and some people may feel uncomfortable on their own.

Burgos to Tardajos: 10.9km
Ascent: 35m Descent: -77m

Finding your way out of Burgos can be a bit complicated. Exiting the municipal albergue turn right and follow the Camino past the cathedral along Calle Fernán de González for 550m until you come to the city wall. Pass through the arch and turn left down the steps and straight on to Calle Emperador as far as Calle Villalon, where you turn left. This will bring you to the river which you cross on a footbridge (Puente Malotos) straight in front of you. After the footbridge you'll see a statue of Santo Domingo and the entrance to a park at the corner of Paseo de los Comendadores. You can either walk through the park or veer right on to Avenida de José Maria Vilacián Rebollo and then straight on to Calle de Villadiego, then veer right on to Calle de Benito Pérez Galdós (sign pointing to Los Guindales). From there follow the yellow arrows.

Tardajos to Rabé de las Calzadas: 1.8km
Ascent: 16m Descent: -12m

Rabé de las Calzadas to Hornillos del Camino: 7.7km
Ascent: 104m Descent: -112m

Hornillos del Camino to San Bol: 5.7km
Ascent: 127m Descent: -51m

San Bol to Hontanas: 4.8km
Ascent: 38m Descent: -66m

Hontanas to San Antón: 5.6km
Ascent: 27m Descent: -89m

For several kilometres after Hontanas the Camino runs parallel to a quite country road. In bad weather walking the road is an easier option.

San Antón to Castrojeriz: 3.7km
Ascent: 40m Descent: -33m

Castrojeriz to Ermita de San Nicolás: 9.1km
Ascent: 156m Descent: -204m

In case you were expecting the Meseta to be flat, there's a massive hill starting 2.5km after Castrojeriz.

5.1km to the clearly signposted turnoff for the village of Itero del Castillo where there is a café, an albergue and an impressive tower. The main Camino goes LEFT at this point.

Municipal (12, 12€, April to October) Albergue de Itero del Castillo, in the village of Itero del Castillo, 3.6km off the main Camino, turn right on to Calle del Sol. Microwaves. Tel 642 213 560

From Itero del Castillo it's a 1km walk back to the main Camino

Ermita de San Nicolás to Itero de la Vega: 1.9km
Ascent: 10m Descent: -5m

Entering the Province of Palencia

Itero de la Vega to Boadilla del Camino: 8.1km
Ascent: 65m Descent: -55m

Boadilla del Camino to Frómista: 5.7km
Ascent: 23m Descent: -25m

Frómista to Población de Campos: 3.4km
Ascent: 11m Descent: -11m

Just before Población on the left is the Romanesque Ermita de San Miguel with a nice shady wooded area.

RIGHT ROUTE: Población de Campos to Villalcázar de Sirga: 11.0km
Ascent: 71m Descent: -47m
LEFT ROUTE: Población de Campos to Villarmentero de Campos: 5.7km
Ascent: 22m Descent: -10m

After Población, just before crossing a small bridge, the Camino divides to rejoin in Villalcázar de Sirga.

RIGHT ROUTE 11km

4.2km to Villovieco, café just after crossing the river. After the Camino crosses the Río Ucieza it continues along its banks for 5km until a bridge with a large house over to the left, here you turn left and follow the paved road for 1.7km to Villalcázar. This route is a quieter and more pleasant option than the left route.

LEFT ROUTE 9.7km

This route goes along the side of a road.

3.6km Revenga de Campos. Café.

2.1km to Villarmentero.

Villarmentero de Campos to Villalcázar de Sirga: 4.0km
Ascent: 19m Descent: -7m

4km to Villalcázar de Sirga

RIGHT AND LEFT ROUTES REJOIN IN VILLALCAZAR

Villalcázar de Sirga to Carrión de los Condes: 5.5km
Ascent: 53m Descent: -21m

Carrión de los Condes to Calzadilla de la Cueza: 17.2km
Ascent: 69m Descent: -48m

You should not leave Carrión without enough food and water for a long walk.

Calzadilla de la Cueza to Lédigos: 5.9km
Ascent: 54m Descent: -34m

Take care crossing the main road here, traffic is infrequent but the locals have heavy feet.

Lédigos to Terradillos de Templarios: 3.0km
Ascent: 23m Descent: -18m

The Camino goes through open country after Lédigos however in 2024 there was a lot of arrows directing you on to an older route to the right, which goes along the side of the road.

Terradillos de Templarios to Moratinos: 3.1km
Ascent: 21m Descent: -40m

Moratinos to San Nicolás del Real Camino: 2.6km
Ascent: 19m Descent: -35m

San Nicolás del Real Camino to Sahagún: 7.1km
Ascent: 63m Descent: -74m

Entering the Province of León

RIGHT ROUTE: Sahagún to Calzada del Coto: 5.0km
Ascent: 33m Descent: -42m
LEFT ROUTE: Sahagún to Bercianos del Real Camino: 10.2km
Ascent: 62m Descent: -33m

4.5km after Sahagún, at a road junction near a motorway just before Calzada del Coto. Here the Camino divides and continues on two separate paths until Reliegos. Much overpainting of arrows at this junction. The right route was a Roman Road whereas the left route is the original Camino Francés.

RIGHT ROUTE 30.9km TO RELIEGOS

From where the two routes divide it is 500m to Calzada del Coto.

Calzada del Coto to Calzadilla de los Hermanillos: 8.5km
Ascent: 79m Descent: -11m

Calzadilla de los Hermanillos to Reliegos: 17.4km
Ascent: 53m Descent: -122m

17.4km to Reliegos or 24km to Mansilla via an alternative route which branches right after 16.5km (signpost often vandalised). Don't set off without adequate supplies for a long day's walking. There is no possibility to stock up on the way. The route runs entirely through open countryside parallel to the León - Madrid railway line. It is however possible to cross over to the left route in several places. You should not cross the railway line unless you want to join the other route.

LEFT ROUTE 30.3km TO RELIEGOS.

For the left route continue straight at the road junction where the right route goes right, then veer right on to an unpaved road. Many parts of this route are gravel path along the side of a quiet road (The so-called Senda).

Bercianos del Real Camino to El Burgo Ranero: 7.2km
Ascent: 35m Descent: -12m

El Burgo Ranero to Reliegos: 13.2km
Ascent: 30m Descent: -89m

RIGHT AND LEFT ROUTES REJOIN IN RELIEGOS

Reliegos to Mansilla de las Mulas: 5.8km
Ascent: 11m Descent: -30m

Mansilla de las Mulas to Puente Villarente: 6.0km
Ascent: 21m Descent: -17m

Puente Villarente to : 4.3km
Ascent: 52m Descent: -4m

4.5km to Arcahueja. It's urban walking from here to León.

The route has been changed recently to pass through Valdelafuente. It's hard to see the point of this except to force us to pass some local businesses and cross a busy main road. The old route is still an option and avoids crossing the main road and most of the walking beside it.

In the city of León, as well as the usual yellow arrows the Camino is marked by metal shells set into the ground. The route followed by the Camino continues more-or-less straight until an abrupt right turn on to Calle Ancha, which brings you up to the cathedral.

León to La Virgen del Camino: 7.3km
Ascent: 104m Descent: -42m

The Camino zigzags past the city's major tourist attractions until it leaves the city centre over the footbridge beside the magnificent Hostal de San Marcos. If you end up lost the easiest way to find your way out is to find the river and walk upstream until you come to the pedestrian bridge, Puente San Marcos, which is just beside Hostal de San Marcos. Cross the river here on the pedestrian bridge and follow the yellow arrows out of town.

Several cafés do breakfast in Trobajo del Camino south of the river. There are also several supermarkets, pharmacies, bakeries and banks along the Camino (however they don't open until about 09:00).

RIGHT ROUTE: La Virgen del Camino to Villadangos del Páramo: 12.9km
Ascent: 85m Descent: -100m
LEFT ROUTE: La Virgen del Camino to Oncina de la Valdoncina: 3.9km
Ascent: 51m Descent: -83m

Cross the main road at the church and turn right. 360m further on the Camino divides. This junction has recently been remodelled and in September 2024 the confusing signposting has been replaced by a confusing lack of signposting. The right route runs along the side of a busy main road. The left route passes through open countryside. The two routes rejoin in Hospital de Órbigo.

RIGHT ROUTE 27.1km

4.2km to Valverde de la Virgin.

1.2km to San Miguel del Camino, shop, cafés.

Villadangos del Páramo to San Martín del Camino: 4.4km
Ascent: 6m Descent: -30m

San Martín del Camino to Hospital de Órbigo: 7.1km
Ascent: 5m Descent: -53m

7.2km to Hospital de Órbigo

LEFT ROUTE 27.1km

1.6km from where the Caminos divide to Fresno del Camino, café.

Oncina de la Valdoncina to Villar de Mazarife: 9.9km
Ascent: 53m Descent: -64m

5.6km to Chozas de Abajo, café (with nice tortillas) 250m off the Camino to the left. Then 4.4km to Villar de Mazarife

Villar de Mazarife to Villavante: 9.4km
Ascent: 2m Descent: -33m

Villavente can be bypassed by continuing straight on the road.

Villavante to Hospital de Órbigo: 4.0km
Ascent: 4m Descent: -19m

RIGHT AND LEFT ROUTES REJOIN IN HOSPITAL DE ÓRBIGO

Hospital de Órbigo to Villares de Órbigo: 2.8km
Ascent: 13m Descent: -6m

At then end of the village the Camino turns right. A little-frequented alternative continues straight at this point. It is 2km shorter than the more popular route but it mostly follows a busy main road where there are no villages (or anything really) until where it rejoins the main route in San Justo de la Vega.

Villares de Órbigo to Santibáñez de Valdeiglesias: 2.7km
Ascent: 57m Descent: -37m

Santibáñez de Valdeiglesias to Astorga: 11.8km
Ascent: 171m Descent: -150m

5km to David's refreshment stand.

2.7km to San Justo de la Vega.

San Justo de la Vega, cafés, bakery and further on on the right a shop and a pharmacy, all on the Camino. Café Bar Oasis is a friendly place and claims to have the best tortilla in the world (it just might be true!)

4km to Astorga.

Astorga to Murias de Rechivaldo: 4.4km
Ascent: 33m Descent: -23m

Leaving town is a bit confusing so pay close attention to the waymarkings. Following the Camino through town (this already is a challenge) then with the cathedral main façade to you right veer left down Calle Leopoldo Panero and then at the end turn right. Continue straight across a road junction on to Calle de San Pedro, past the unusual modern Iglesia de San Pedro, until you arrive at the main road called Avenida Madrid-Coruña, which you cross on the pedestrian crossing to the right before continuing on to Calle de los Mártires. Follow this and it's straight all the way out of town.

Astorga marks the beginning of the Maragatería but it also marks the end of the geographic region of the Meseta which we entered weeks ago near Burgos. Today the land is sloping gently upwards and we will continue to climb for the next 30km or so until we reach the Camino Francés' highest point between Manjarín and El Acebo.

2.4km to Valdeviejas, albergue closed

Murias de Rechivaldo to Santa Catalina de Somoza: 4.5km
Ascent: 100m Descent: 0m

Santa Catalina de Somoza to El Ganso: 4.2km
Ascent: 39m Descent: -8m

El Ganso to Rabanal del Camino: 6.8km
Ascent: 152m Descent: -14m

The climb to Cruz de Ferro begins in earnest after El Ganso, however, the ascent is mostly pretty gradual.

Rabanal del Camino to Foncebadón: 5.4km
Ascent: 280m Descent: -7m

Foncebadón to El Acebo: 11.2km
Ascent: 187m Descent: -481m

You can walk on the road all the way to Molinaseca if you so desire, a good option if it's been snowing.

1.9km after Foncebadón you will come to the Cruz de Ferro.

The Cruz de Ferro is also sometimes called the Cruz de Hierro or Cruz do Fierro. It doesn't mark the highest point on the Camino, that's a few kilometres later, but it's pretty high nevertheless. It's traditional for pilgrims to deposit a pebble here which they carried from their home to ask for protection on the remainder of their journey. Today the cross stands on top of a 5m high pile of stones. Pilgrim often also leave some other memento here.

The site of the Cruz de Ferro is believed to have been used by the Romans as a shrine to their God Mercury and was then 'Christianised' by Gaucelmo who placed the first cross here.

2.3km to Manjarín

Manjarín was abandoned at the beginning of the 19th century and only came back to life in 1993 when a pilgrim albergue opened here. Its history, like so many other villages in this region, dates back to the early days of the Camino when there was a pilgrim albergue here. Sadly the famous and iconic albergue here has closed and it seems unlikely if it will open again.

3.2km after Manjarín, after passing an antenna on your right, you will reach the highest point on the Camino Francés at 1515m and enter El Bierzo. Fiestas Día Del Bierzo 8 September.

After the highest point you will descend 930m over 11.7km between here and Molinaseca. The path may be slippery in places, especially in winter. It is possible to follow the road all the way.

El Acebo to Riego de Ambrós: 3.3km
Ascent: 10m Descent: -223m

Riego de Ambrós to Molinaseca: 4.5km
Ascent: 26m Descent: -369m

There is a long, steep descent into Molinaseca. An easier alternative if you don't like descents or in poor weather, is to walk along the (quiet) road.

Molinaseca to Ponferrada: 7.9km
Ascent: 103m Descent: -167m

From here, unfortunately, you'll be walking on hard surfaces most of the way to Las Herrerías.

From Molinaseca walk along the footpath beside the main road towards Ponferrada.

2.8km after Molinaseca the Camino divides. From here there are two options to enter Ponferrada. Either continue on the main road for 4km, or veer left on to a minor road to follow a longer 'official' Camino through a series of meanders for 5.1km.

Ponferrada to Camponaraya: 8.8km
Ascent: 56m Descent: -76m

Getting out of Ponferrada is a little complicated, follow the Camino to the castle and then turn right. The Camino leads you through the historic centre before crossing the river into the new part of town where it turns right to follow the river north for 1.4km until it turns left away from the river at a roundabout shortly after the Museo de la Energia / Energy Museum.

4.5km to Columbrianos, café.

Camponaraya to Cacabelos: 5.9km
Ascent: 54m Descent: -61m

The Camino in Camponaraya runs along a busy road the length of the village and out the other end, then at the gates of a factory it veers up to the left beside a picnic area.

Cacabelos to : 2.2km
Ascent: 64m Descent: -10m

2.3km to Pieros. The nice albergue here sadly burned down.

Valtuille de Arriba to Villafranca del Bierzo: 4.9km
Ascent: 68m Descent: -127m

Villafranca del Bierzo to Trabadelo: 9.2km
Ascent: 198m Descent: -131m

Shortly after crossing the bridge in Villafranca the Camino divides. The main (easiest and shortest) route continues straight ahead and follows the road along the flat valley floor beside the Río Valcarce. Passing through the village of Pereje.

ALTERNATIVE ROUTE (does not go through Pereje) This (more scenic, hillier and longer) route goes up a narrow, steep street by Peluquería Ana / Hairdresser. (It may not be signposted due to vandalism.) It passes through beautiful mountainous countryside before rejoining the main route in Trabadelo. It has a steep 410m ascent and corresponding descent. Yellow arrows are scarce at times. Once at the top follow the unpaved road. This route passes through Pradela where there is a café and an albergue.

Private (10, 6€, March to November) Albergue Lamas, in the village of Pradela on the alternative route. Laundry facilities. Café / restaurant with local produce and their own wine. Breakfast. Tel 677 569 764 Open 11:00

ALTERNATIVE ROUTE On the descend towards Trabadelo along a minor road, in a left-hand curve there's a marked track branching right, follow this. The route crosses the road twice before arriving in Trabadelo. This alternative route is a bit of an adventure but much more beautiful than the main valley route and worth the slog (in good weather and visibility).

4.8km Pereje, the municipal albergue has been closed since the beginning of Covid.

In the 12th century the pilgrim albergue in Pereje was the scene of a territorial dispute between the Cluniac monastery of Villafranca and a rival monastery in O Cebreiro supported by the Abbey of Saint Géraud d'Aurillac. The O Cebreiro monks built a church and albergue in Pereje, in defiance of the Villafranca monks who officially administered the village. The dispute became so heated that Popes and monarchs became involved. Thankfully it was eventually settled with a minimum of bloodshed.

Trabadelo to La Portela de Valcarce: 4.1km
Ascent: 92m Descent: -65m

La Portela de Valcarce to : 1.1km
Ascent: 27m Descent: -15m

1.3km to Ambasmestas. Cafés. The café in the Centro de Turismo Rural does an excellent Pilgrim Menu.

Vega de Valcarce to Ruitelán: 2.5km
Ascent: 47m Descent: -22m

Ruitelán to Las Herrerías: 1.2km
Ascent: 33m Descent: -21m

Las Herrerías to La Faba: 3.5km
Ascent: 272m Descent: -34m

The climb to O Cebreiro begins here. In the next 8.2km the Camino ascends 619m.

La Faba to Laguna de Castilla: 2.3km
Ascent: 231m Descent: -5m

Laguna de Castilla to O Cebreiro: 2.4km
Ascent: 163m Descent: -26m

Welcome to Galicia, Province of Lugo

There are few Municipal Albergues in Galicia however in their place are Xunta Albergues. These are funded directly by the Government of Galicia (the Xunta). They always have kitchens but for reasons which will not be speculated upon here their kitchens are rarely usable. ie. The cooker doesn't work, there are no utensils, etc. For this reason Xunta Albergues which have unusable kitchens (which is most of them) are listed here as having no kitchen.

O Cebreiro to Liñares: 3.3km
Ascent: 97m Descent: -159m

Leaving O Cebreiro walk to the left of the Xunta albergue and through the forest on a good path. Ignore signposting urging you to walk along the road!

Liñares to Hospital da Condesa: 2.5km
Ascent: 93m Descent: -73m

Shortly after Liñares you will come to Alto de San Roque with its famous statue of the pilgrim struggling forward against a headwind.

Hospital da Condesa to Alto do Poio: 2.7km
Ascent: 152m Descent: -56m

Alto do Poio to Fonfría: 3.4km
Ascent: 27m Descent: -62m

Fonfría to Fillobal: 5.4km
Ascent: 20m Descent: -347m

2.5km to Biduedo, café

Fillobal to Triacastela: 3.5km
Ascent: 9m Descent: -301m

RIGHT ROUTE: Triacastela to A Balsa: 2.0km
Ascent: 64m Descent: -9m
LEFT ROUTE: Triacastela to San Cristovo do Real: 4.0km
Ascent: 51m Descent: -111m

At the end of the main street in Triacastela the Camino goes in two opposite directions. The right route goes through Calvor and on to Sarria. The left route goes through Samos. The two routes rejoin in Aguiada shortly before Sarria.

RIGHT ROUTE 13.6km TO AGUIADA

A Balsa to Calvor: 11.1km
Ascent: 238m Descent: -444m

8.1km to Furela, café Bar Franco does good food, especially empanadas and Caldo Galego (see under O Cebreiro) although only in cold weather.

1.72km to Pintín, café

Calvor to Sarria: 5.0km
Ascent: 35m Descent: -117m

520m to Aguiada

LEFT ROUTE 19.8km TO AGUIADA

Follow the road for 4km as far as San Cristovo do Real where the Camino branches to the right.

San Cristovo do Real to Samos: 6.1km
Ascent: 196m Descent: -260m

1.75km to Renche, café.

Samos to Sarria: 14.3km
Ascent: 284m Descent: -389m

After Samos the Camino follows the main road for 2.5km until it branches right at a restaurant called Mesón Pontenova. This route passes through beautiful countryside and the localities (you can hardly call them villages) of Pascais, Gorolfe, Veiga, Sivil and Perros.

7.9km from Samos to Sivil, café.

RIGHT AND LEFT ROUTES REJOIN IN AGUIADA, 4.5km BEFORE SARRIA

Once in Sarria there's a temporary (for several years now) detour where a bridge over the Río Sarria is being reconstructed.

Sarria to Vilei - Barbadelo: 4.4km
Ascent: 174m Descent: -65m

There have been reports of charity scammers outside Sarria. They generally accost pilgrims on a quite part of the Camino with a clipboard and a story about helping deaf children. It's all lies. Don't give them anything. The best thing is not to engage with them at all, look pissed-off, look straight ahead and keep walking.

Vilei - Barbadelo to Morgade: 7.7km
Ascent: 190m Descent: -93m

1.7km to Café Serra.

3.1km to Molino de Marzán (the albergue here is closed)

1.6km to Peruscallo, café.

2.5km to A Brea, café.

Morgade to Ferreiros: 1.1km
Ascent: 17m Descent: -13m

Ferreiros to Mercadoiro: 3.8km
Ascent: 49m Descent: -163m

900m to 100km from Santiago waymarker.

300m to A Pena, café. Shortly after A Pena, As Rozas, café in a farm yard.

Mercadoiro to Vilacha: 3.1km
Ascent: 22m Descent: -139m

1.7km from the albergue to A Parrocha, café

Vilacha to Portomarín: 1.9km
Ascent: 7m Descent: -84m

600m after Vilacha the Camino divides. The left route veers on to a narrow path between high stone walls. This path is steep and can be slippy, especially after rain. The right route (the only one until 2015) branches right and follows a quiet country road. These routes rejoin at the bridge just before Portomarín. The distances are more-or-less the same.

If you're not stopping in Portomarín and you don't feel like climbing all those steps you can turn left just after the bridge, walk along the road and rejoin the Camino where it crosses a bridge to the left.

Portomarín to Gonzar: 7.9km
Ascent: 243m Descent: -54m

Gonzar to Castromaior: 1.0km
Ascent: 42m Descent: 0m

Castromaior to Hospital da Cruz: 2.8km
Ascent: 106m Descent: -21m

Hospital da Cruz to Vendas de Narón: 1.6km
Ascent: 33m Descent: -8m

Vendas de Narón to Ligonde: 3.1km
Ascent: 15m Descent: -98m

1.9km, café.

Ligonde to Airexe de Ligonde: 0.9km
Ascent: 22m Descent: -24m

800m Café Casa Mariluz with its enormous tortillas de patata.

Airexe de Ligonde to : 2.1km
Ascent: 21m Descent: -70m

2.2km to Portos, cafés.

800m to Lestedo, café.

1.9km, café.

Palas de Rei to San Xulián do Camiño: 3.7km
Ascent: 42m Descent: -142m

San Xulián do Camiño to Mato: 1.0km
Ascent: 0m Descent: -40m

Mato to Casanova: 1.3km
Ascent: 66m Descent: -2m

Casanova to Melide: 8.7km
Ascent: 142m Descent: -181m

2km café.

750m cafés.

2.1km café.

Melide to Boente: 5.8km
Ascent: 82m Descent: -142m

This is the point where the Camino Primitivo (which starts in Oviedo) joins the Camino Francés.

4km café.

Boente to Castañeda: 2.2km
Ascent: 75m Descent: -58m

Castañeda to Ribadiso: 3.0km
Ascent: 52m Descent: -155m

Ribadiso to Arzúa: 2.4km
Ascent: 95m Descent: -5m

Arzúa to Bebedeiro: 5.0km
Ascent: 129m Descent: -122m

Arzúa is where the Camino del Norte joins the Camino Francés.

Bebedeiro to As Quintas: 0.7km
Ascent: 8m Descent: -3m

As Quintas to Outeiro: 2.7km
Ascent: 22m Descent: -84m

Outeiro to Salceda: 3.6km
Ascent: 72m Descent: -45m

Salceda to Santa Irene: 3.8km
Ascent: 88m Descent: -54m

You'll need to cross the main road several times between here and O Pedrouzo. Extreme caution is advised, this road can be very busy at times!

2.2km to A Brea, cafés

1.7km to O Empalme, cafés.

Santa Irene to A Rúa: 2.6km
Ascent: 21m Descent: -147m

A Rúa to O Pedrouzo: 1.4km
Ascent: 23m Descent: -15m

The official Camino passes through the outskirts of the town of O Pedrouzo, to get to the town centre, where the albergues and most business are, turn left on to the main road at a place where the Camino crosses it just after A Rúa. WARNING: it is easy to miss this junction!

O Pedrouzo to A Esquipa: 9.5km
Ascent: 216m Descent: -203m

To get back to the Camino continue along O Pedrouzo's main street and turn right at the Casa do Concello.

There are cafés every couple of kilometres from here on.

A Esquipa to Monte do Gozo: 5.5km
Ascent: 116m Descent: -42m

Frequent cafés from here on. Café de Amancio in Vilamaior is nice.

Monte do Gozo to San Lázaro: 2.4km
Ascent: 23m Descent: -105m

It's urban jungle from here on. Lots of cafés, etc.

San Lázaro to Santiago de Compostela: 2.3km
Ascent: 30m Descent: -58m

It's surprisingly easy to get lost on the way into Santiago. If in doubt aim for the cathedral.